Saturday, November 14, 2009

More from Ravaut

Having realized from a not universal silence that many of you are planning to spend a cozy morning reviewing that recent delectable list of Ravaut wines over your Saturday morning coffee, and since we cannot think of a better option for a dreary morning than drooling…, er, dreaming of good wine because of the mornings that we have done the same, we thought, Dear Reader, we should place a bit more information at your fingertips.

Ever sleuthful, we have been ferreting out additional information for you on the previously mentioned wine and can add the following tidbits direct from a young member of the Ravaut family. In previous postings we have discussed ad nausaeum the effects on wine of the canicule of summer of 2003. Apparently the heat, with respect to the Aloxe Corton on our list, has created a wine that is superb and ready to drink today while guarding the sauvage – what would could be translated as ‘wild’ but let us say ‘rustic’ – qualities of this wine. In general much of the natural acid of the Pinot Noir was ‘baked’ out of the grapes in the heat. Much of the structure on which the wine ages is based on acid; therefore, without it, the wine matures more quickly.

This same lack of acid is apparent in the 2003 Corton Grand Cru Les Bressandes. Our Source described it as resembling a California Pinot Noir – a warm sensation (almost as if sweet) and the taste of very ripe fruit in the mouth, the tannins are apparent so there is structure but it is not typical of Les Bressandes. Now while we can assume that the producer did describe his wine as a big California fruit bomb to completely destroy its value, we can understand it is not typical of a Burgundian Grand Cru! We would still recommend this wine simply because of its approachability and inherent beauty.

At the same time, not without some pride, the Source did say that the Corton Grand Cru Les Hautes-Mourottes was more typical – a lovely acidity and fraicher or freshness (the quality that French wine makers often find missing in CA wines). We can assume here that the pride is derived their ability to create a wine representative of what they consider to be a Grand Cru despite adverse growing conditions for the grapes.

Briefly, for 1999, the Corton Bressandes was described as mature and ready to drink while the Hautes-Mourottes is lovely but would not be hurt by a bit more time in the cave. These tips were received with not a small amount of surprise as the inverse is more normal. Bressandes is traditionally more acidic and therefore longer to guard. Here we have the chance to open a Bressandes earlier than normal, and experience this nectar!

Consider carefully our choices. This is an unusual event – older wines direct from the domain, aged in their cellars in great conditions, sold when the domain considers them ready to drink. They will deliver them in Paris next weekend also. It is additionally an opportunity to buy in cases of 6 (more typical in Bourgogne than in 12’s). Think of your holidays!

Eat, Drink, Blog!

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