More from Ravaut

Having realized from a not universal silence that many of you are planning to spend a cozy morning reviewing that recent delectable list of Ravaut wines over your Saturday morning coffee, and since we cannot think of a better option for a dreary morning than drooling…, er, dreaming of good wine because of the mornings that we have done the same, we thought, Dear Reader, we should place a bit more information at your fingertips.

Ever sleuthful, we have been ferreting out additional information for you on the previously mentioned wine and can add the following tidbits direct from a young member of the Ravaut family. In previous postings we have discussed ad nausaeum the effects on wine of the canicule of summer of 2003. Apparently the heat, with respect to the Aloxe Corton on our list, has created a wine that is superb and ready to drink today while guarding the sauvage – what would could be translated as ‘wild’ but let us say ‘rustic’ – qualities of this wine. In general much of the natural acid of the Pinot Noir was ‘baked’ out of the grapes in the heat. Much of the structure on which the wine ages is based on acid; therefore, without it, the wine matures more quickly.

This same lack of acid is apparent in the 2003 Corton Grand Cru Les Bressandes. Our Source described it as resembling a California Pinot Noir – a warm sensation (almost as if sweet) and the taste of very ripe fruit in the mouth, the tannins are apparent so there is structure but it is not typical of Les Bressandes. Now while we can assume that the producer did describe his wine as a big California fruit bomb to completely destroy its value, we can understand it is not typical of a Burgundian Grand Cru! We would still recommend this wine simply because of its approachability and inherent beauty.

At the same time, not without some pride, the Source did say that the Corton Grand Cru Les Hautes-Mourottes was more typical – a lovely acidity and fraicher or freshness (the quality that French wine makers often find missing in CA wines). We can assume here that the pride is derived their ability to create a wine representative of what they consider to be a Grand Cru despite adverse growing conditions for the grapes.

Briefly, for 1999, the Corton Bressandes was described as mature and ready to drink while the Hautes-Mourottes is lovely but would not be hurt by a bit more time in the cave. These tips were received with not a small amount of surprise as the inverse is more normal. Bressandes is traditionally more acidic and therefore longer to guard. Here we have the chance to open a Bressandes earlier than normal, and experience this nectar!

Consider carefully our choices. This is an unusual event – older wines direct from the domain, aged in their cellars in great conditions, sold when the domain considers them ready to drink. They will deliver them in Paris next weekend also. It is additionally an opportunity to buy in cases of 6 (more typical in Bourgogne than in 12’s). Think of your holidays!

Eat, Drink, Blog!

Old Bottles from a Fave Domain

Many of you have noticed our lack of communication since summer – not an indication of our dislike of the task, nor even a forgetfulness of our obligation. Indeed our absence was more related to an attempt to define more clearly the Insider Wine Club, focus it and deliver a product that you, Loyal Reader, are pleased to receive regularly in your mail box. The rapid-fire era in which we live leaves most of us with little disposable time to devote to long and lovingly crafted missives even when they are focused on such vital topics as wine. Therefore, we advise you to watch here and in your email inboxes for exciting modifications from the Club.

In the meantime, dining out this weekend with the Chef Cousin (simple things – mousse of champignons, tartare of oysters, and a white beans, cabbage, and meat stew), I was alerted to an opportunity I wished to share with you. One of our favorite Cote de Beaune producers, Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut of Ladoix, is offering a limited amount of its Réserve bottles and its Vins Vieux stock. The difference between the two categories? The Réserve selection are wines from more recent vintages that the domain considered worthwhile to hold back or reserve because of their potential rather than selling them out completely. Vins Vieux represent older bottles which, particularly with several of the Grand Crus offered here, should be at their apogee.

A few highlights from the Réserve selection:
From 2003 – the year of the canicule, or the extreme summer heat wave in France which created a very specific condition for the grapes which in turn produced very distinctive wines that age more rapidly than traditional years – Aloxe-Corton, Corton Grand Cru Hautes-Mourottes, Corton Grand Cru Bressandes
1996 Corton Grand Cru, Hautes Mourottes and Bressandes

From the Vins Vieux selection:
Corton Grand Cru, Hautes Mourottes and Bressandes, 1993 (particularly beautiful) and 1983 (another particularly gorgeous year)
Aloxe Corton – 1983 & 1972 (!)
Ladoix les Hautes Mourottes – 1980 (an interesting name that no longer exists, my guess is that soon after this the vineyard was reclassified and merged into the Corton Grand Cru of the same name.
And for the grands amateurs of old white wines:
Ladoix blanc– 1983

All of these wines, in our humble opinion are ready to drink. Those in the Réserve list, particularly the Corton, could also be cellared for some time. Those from the Vins Vieux selection are really ready to drink. You can see the full list and learn more about these wines by emailing us.

Until then, drink up!